HELP!!! Carb/Idle/Non Running Issue....

Looking for some mechanical advice or sharing your own tales of the workshop wonder.

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JamesIke
Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:13 am


Hello All!

Have had my 85 for 2 weeks now. Pulled carbs 4 times, and cleaned TWICE! I am a pro at R&R on the carbs.. lol.

A brief history...
1985 VF1000r, CA model with K&N air filter and Hindle Stealth 4 into 1 exhaust, PO left stock jetting at 122 main and 38 idle, adjustment screws out 2.5 turns. The owner replaced the fuel lines,but the starter needed rebuilt and he thought it was more serious, his loss, my gain.. hee hee :) so he never got it running again and it sat in his garage for 6 years without starting. Not sure if he drained the float bowls or used any fuel stabilizer, but they weren't that bad inside when I took them apart. I didn't do a FULL cleaning with removing any plastic or rubber parts and dipping the carbs in a bucket of cleaner,can't afford to buy new gasket kits if anything is bad or i ruin something. So I used plenty of brake cleaner on the carbs and like I said, can see light through the small hole on the pilot jet. There was some varnish on the needles, and I cleaned any stuff I could see. I also cleaned the Tank cap vent hole, (had that issue on my XL) and even started the bike with the starter fluid and the tank open, no luck.

I can get the bike started on starter fluid but not without, will not stay running. Removed fuel pump and went with gravity feed like Jamie suggested, fuel getting to carbs (fuel drains when i open the bowl drain). When I pulled the carbs and cleaned them the second time, I double checked the pilot jets and made sure I could see light through them and could.
Do I need to go for the more drastic route and dull the FULL POP carb clean and dunk and buy the rebuild kit? I also intend on getting a Factory jet kit for it as well as soon as I become gainfully employed again.

Any help you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.. and if you are near Burlingame, CA and you want to come help... ;)
jamiedaugherty
Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Nov 30, 1999 12:00 am


You say that you've checked the pilot jets, but have you thoroughly cleaned the pilot circut? There are several tiny passages in the carb body - that is where the blockages usually occur, not the jets. Pull the pilot needles and clean those passages really good. It's not a bad idea to ultrasonically clean the rack while it's off.

Let us know how it works out!
JamesIke
Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:13 am


Hello Again Jamie,

Do you mean the circuit below the unscrewed pilot jet (the holes on the side and the one down the middle of the pilot jet are not blocked) or the one brass tube that doesn't seem to be removable? I sprayed a ton of brake cleaner down that tube, don't have access to ultrasound cleaner and can't afford rebuild kit at the moment...

Also, when it starts on the starter fluid, it will only run on starter fluid (precisely timed blasts from JFI, James Fuel Injection) but not on its own...

Thanks again!
James
CB350G
Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:20 am


I pulled my carbs. It had been 12 years since it had been run. The gas had turned to glue. The butter-flies would barely open & close. The slide was stuck shut. The fuel needle was glued shut. DO NOT put the carb body in carb cleaner. I used PB Blaster to get the butter-flies working and hand wiped the slides and other parts with carb cleaner. Replace the mains with #125's Kehins & the pilot jets with #38. Remove the main jet holder that is under the main jets. Soak that in carb cleaner. Be careful not to lose any washers. If you need new pilot jet screws use Honda #16016-MAH-670. That comes with the screw,washer, o-ring, plug & spring. 3 turns out. I have Dyna-Jet needles set on the 3rd position down from the top. I'm at 1000 ft. I also am running a Hindle 4-1 pipe and a K&N filter. The cams were re-ground by Mega-Cycle and the head has been shaved .010 I have carb-sticks and you do have to syn the carbs. Be careful that the carb syn springs are in place & don't remove the carbs from the air intake plate that bolts the whole thing together. You can loosen the screws, and you will have to slightly bend the throttle cable holder to remove the cover on # 4 carb. When re-installing lube the boots & carb with motor oil and have all the clamps loose. Hook up your throttle cables first. Boots on manifolds first then front carbs in first. Now is the hard part. Rear carbs in the boots. I use fine blade long screw drivers to get that last part of the top of the boot on. If you are careful you won't damage the old boots. Syning the carbs is a trick too! It's best to lay down doing that!
CB350G
Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:20 am


I haven't ridden the bike in 2 years I've been loaded up with work. I had one of my floats sticking in one carb. I dissasembled the carbs, cleaned and set them up for reassemble. The carb boots are hard as a rock and I tried all the tricks to soften them up to no avail. I ordered up new rubber boots from Everett Powersports, Honda part #16212-MB6-010 Powersports #232033214335. 1 set of 4 for $38.48. I just got them today they are correct size and match the orginal perfect and soft rubber. Sweet! Now I just need to make some time to put it all back together.I'm going to coat them with NAPA Sil-Gylde which should help them hold up longer under the heat. I'll be back! 8)
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