1986 VF1000R taillight/turn sig bracket ??

Looking for some mechanical advice or sharing your own tales of the workshop wonder.

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bille7
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:10 pm


Hi ho-

Almost done restoring an '86' When I first got the bike home and took it apart, I noticed it had been modified for
aftermarket turn sigs and the wings for the rear sigs had been cut from the bracket. I wanted to remount the original sigs
so picked up a good used bracket on ebay. I just finished repainting and am reassembling. The new bracket seems
to interfere with the rear bodywork as it hits the two taillight mounting cradles. It had been set up so that taillight was
completely mounted in the rear bodywork, making it easily removable by removing the two forward bolts and seat fasteners
at which time the rear bodywork, taillight, and seat were removed as a unit. The used taillight/turn sig bracket I picked up on
ebay doesn't look like the one that came on the bike and now I'm looking at a used rear bodywork item for sale on ebay and the taillight cradles are not part of it. I uploaded pics of the used ebay bracket (now on the bike) and the original, or at least
the one that was on it when purchased. if anyone can point out where I going wrong here it would surely be appreciated!


thanks,
bill
Attachments
0624181017a.jpg original piece. turn sig mounts cut off.
0624181017.jpg ebay piece. aa shown in honda parts catalog.
bille7
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:10 pm


ok so it looks like the taillight assembly was designed to be mounted inside the rear body work (at least on this bike) although the used metal bracket I picked up on ebay, which seems to be identical to the picture in the OEM parts catalog, also has provisions to mount the taillight. As such, the bodywork could not be mounted on the bike as those tabs inside the bodywork collided with those on the OEM bracket. I ended up using the OEM bracket to form a crude jig then cut off the turn signal ears and welded them on to the bracket that originally came with the bike. Much better. Now the taillight mounts inside the bodywork and installs or removes with it, although the taillight still needs to be unplugged. Not a huge advantage here but it's cool, although not so easy on the 'glass panels when installing.removing. Does anyone know if this is the way they all came from the factory?
Attachments
0627181600.jpg
0628180738.jpg
0628180726.jpg
nigelrb
Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 5:29 am


Hi bille7.

There seems to be some subtle differences between the 85 and 86. There might also be variation between UK/USA/EU and AUS versions.

Not sure if this catalogue might help, but it does show the difference in parts numbers: http://honda.vf1000.com/resources/Honda ... F1000R.pdf

Sounds as if you've got it sorted now anyway.
bille7
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:10 pm


Hi Nigelrb-

thanks for replying. Maybe mine is a mutt but it seems like any issues with that area are finally history.
I hit the starter button yesterday. It fires and runs for 5 or 6 seconds then dies. The pump relay clicks on when the
key is turned so will check the pump and filter this weekend. Just wondering why these bikes need fuel pumps. There
are a few posts about eliminating the pump by just bypassing it. Wonder how many do that and what, if any, the side
effects are.

have a great weekend.
nigelrb
Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 5:29 am


Sorry to hear of your problem. Without factual background, I suspect the fuel pump is installed because of the small height difference between the bottom of tank outlet to the carbs. The consequence of this would be starvation when the fuel level is low - specifically on sustained lean angles.

Interesting about bypassing pump - I will look at those threads with interest.
bille7
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:10 pm


Hiho-

It looks like we've got some great weather in store here for the next few days and I bet you're right about the lean conditions
when not using a pump and the tank is low on fuel. After looking around the web, there seems to be no shortage of pumps that can be swapped in so am not so worried about the issue. Will post a note stating what was wrong after it's been resolved.
This is my 7th "winter restore" in as many years. It's a good pass time but 7 bikes is too many so this will be my last. If it runs.

Thanks & hope the weekend is nice-
nigelrb
Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 5:29 am


Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:02 pmbille7 wrote:
Hiho-

It's a good pass time but 7 bikes is too many so this will be my last.
Thanks & hope the weekend is nice-
Good idea - I've just cut back from 7 to 6! Sold my C90 Cub to make way for a NS400R :P
bille7
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:10 pm


So it turns out I was a victim of my own laziness. The fuel pump and relay tested fine so I pulled the carbs again after noticing an empty float bowl. When the thing was all apart last winter, I cut corners and flew thru the
carb "cleanup", only cleaning the bowls and idle jets. I must've been completely blind, missing the fact that 2 float needle valves were seized with the floats in the "up" position and 3 of the vacuum operated were stuck in their bores- all from old
fuel. Luckily, there was no permanent damage and the thing now fires right away and sits there idling nicely. I have to say that
reinstalling those carburetors is no walk in the park compared to the in-line setups. Hoping they don't have to come off again
for a long long time (8.

thanks,
bill
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